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At Home in Umbria

Deeply Rooted like the olive,

With a sweetness like the vine,

Fresh memories become new branches

As the old ones become entwined.

We, the owners, may not have been born here - we are American - but our love for Italy is genuine and deeply rooted.

Our name may not be Italian - El Marsam is an Arabic word that means "where the artist paints - but our beloved farmhouse is 100% extra-virgin Umbrian!

Come, travel with us. The main road from Umbertide is serene with its umbrella pines that introduce the countryside about to welcome you. Tall, green-black cypresses line the first gentle ascent into the hillside northeast of the city; the road winds its way through fields of golden sunflowers, each one a tightly woven knot in this magnificent Umbrian carpet. As you leave the asphalt road, proceeding on strada bianca - the white gravel road - the passage narrows through tall hedges that frame vineyards. You pass a lovely villa and up the hill, a little farther is the wrought iron gate of El Marsam B&B, owned by Mike and Ginda Simpson, your hosts while you are "at home in Umbria."

Spazzavento, its original name, means sweeping winds. It is a stone farmhouse on the outskirts of Umbertide in the northern region of Umbria. It is uncertain when the first foundations of the house were laid, but estimates put its age at between three and four hundred years. The ancient loggia windows flood the house with light and refreshing breezes sweep across the hilltop, living up to the name the house was given centuries ago. As with all farmhouses in the Umbrian countryside, the original house consisted of animal stalls below and living quarters for the family above. Spazzavento, abandoned in the middle of the 20th century, remained vacant for several decades. The arched loggia was crudely bricked up and the house left in disrepair; but, it has a long history that has touched the lives of many of the locals. During the war, it was one of the few places in the area which had not been bombed, and consequently, is where many townsfolk fled to find at least a roof over their head. Food, of course, was another matter. Today, the farmhouse is surrounded by vineyards, gardens, olive groves and fruit orchards, providing not just beauty but also an abundance of pleasure for the palette.

The bulk of the restoration was undertaken thirty years ago by the previous owners and involved first re-opening the arches of the loggia and then creating windows. An internal staircase was added connecting the two floors. Below, the original animal stalls were converted to cosy bedrooms and a comfortable dining room with a small sitting room. A back room downstairs, once used for storing farming implements, was converted into a rustic kitchen where hand-made terracotta tiles salvaged from a 14th century house were used for the flooring you see today. Wherever possible throughout the house, old cotta was used and the aged chestnut beams kept in place. The meter-thick walls help maintain a pleasantly cool temperature indoors in the summer months. Spazzavento was equipped with its first modern bathrooms at this time.

Mike and Ginda Simpson purchased the house in 1999 and have carefully added to the restoration process by updating the upstairs bathroom, re-designing and building a stone and terracotta staircase, remodeling & creating the Nile studio and bath, replacing the old terrace and a traditional outdoor wood-burning oven. They have even added a small shrine to the Madonna; in Ginda's painting the Blessed Mother holds their twin grandchildren in her arms. Ginda has incorporated her artwork into the very walls of El Marsam. You could say that many of Ginda's artistic endeavors have become part of El Marsam’s “permanent collection”.

The land, like the house, had also suffered from neglect and it was the previous owner who lavished interminable vision, energy and funds to bring it back to life. He planted the olive trees and the fruit orchard. Mike has added new trees to the olive grove, several more fruit trees and a small vineyard. The harvests are more bountiful each year, providing fruits, vegetables, olive oil and wine for family consumption and the enjoyment of guests. In addition, Mike now raises a small gaggle of geese and ducks and is careful not to “name them”, making it somewhat easier to bring them to the dinner table.

The house sits on a little over three acres of land at approximately 1200 feet elevation. It is reported to have the most beautiful view of Umbertide and the surrounding countryside. Indeed, as you look to the left you see the Castle Ranieri; straight ahead on a clear day - distant hamlets; to the right up high is Monte Acuto and the ancient monastery of Montecorona; and far to the right below, sits Umbertide with its 16th century octagonal church and medieval fortress.

Located in Umbertide, Italy in the Perugia region, El Marsam is a three-hour drive north from Rome or a two-hour drive south of Florence. For our visitors coming from the UK, Ryanair is now flying from London Stansted into Perugia three times a week, making it even more convenient to use El Marsam as your base for exploring the Umbrian countryside.

El Marsam's central location allows for easy day trips by car into the countryside of both Umbria and Tuscany to explore such medieval gems as Gubbio, Assisi, Deruta, Perugia, Cortona, Arezzo and Spoleto. After a home-cooked breakfast, you can spend the day touring and return "home" to a delicious three-course dinner and soul-satisfying views.