El Marsam Studio
© Ginda Simpson
At 9:00 in the morning as we cross St. Mark’s Square. The sky is clear,
promising a glorious day. We are meeting friends at the nearby Pietà Pier,
where we will board the Burchiello for a leisurely cruise down the
Brenta Canal. For decades, the “Burchiello” cruises have been taking
visitors along the Brenta River between Venice and Padua, an excursion that
grants them an unhurried glimpse at the natural beauty of the area, passing
villas of significant historical and cultural importance. Our friends,
Marianne and Bruce, arrive early at the Pier, as anxious as we are to embark.
Marianne and I settle at a table on the lower deck of the Burchiello, a
name derived from the Venetian words “burcio beo” which means beautiful
boat, while Bruce and Mike find seating above in the open air. To prevent the
Venetian lagoon from silting up, the Brenta River was diverted over the
centuries to keep it from flowing into the lagoon. The older canal dates back
to the 15th century and because it proved to be an important
transportation route, wealthy Venetians began to build elegant villas along
its 22-mile length.
We cross the lagoon and enter the narrow canal, banked by poplar and willow
trees. A woman walks along the banks, lost in a world of her own, carrying a
huge bouquet of wild yellow daisies. The long feathery branches of a willow
tree caress the water’s surface. The canal meanders in the most pleasing
fashion, past farmland and orchards, simple homes and magnificent villas.
Field after field is planted in corn – feeding, no doubt, the Venetian’s love
for polenta.
Soon after the Brenta Canal was completed, the noble families of Venice
realized the potential of these rich rural lands and began to exploit the
agricultural possibilities. Having amassed a fortune in shipping and foreign
trade, they were ready to invest in large-scale agriculture and transportation
of crops to the population centers. There was a new crop – corn from the New
World – and it was planted in abundance.
These wealthy city dwellers recognized the benefits of the tranquil
countryside with its fresh air and thus began to build summer homes along the
canal. The challenge was to build homes that were elegant enough to reflect
their elevated social status, yet economical to construct and of a design
suitable for a farming lifestyle. To achieve this, the architect, Palladio
used brick instead of stone. The brick was then stuccoed and painted to look
like precious marbles. The capitals were made of terracotta and other
architectural elements were made of wood, and then covered in straw lathing
and stucco. Lastly, instead of using expensive tapestries to decorate and
insulate, as was the custom in the grand palaces of the city, the proud
patricians commissioned artists to paint elaborate frescoes on the interior
walls.
Our first stop is the remarkable Palladian Villa Foscari, built in 1560, a
home that reflects Palladio’s architectural achievements - hallmarks of
harmony, balance and proportion in color, textures and mood. Legend has it
that the villa owes its name, “Malcontenta” to the wife of one of the Foscari
who was confined here against her will. How could anyone living here be
malcontent? This is a home I could live in quite contentedly. Villa
Foscari is still lived in today by family descendents. The muted, restful
colors of the frescoes seem to mirror the very countryside we have just passed
through – pale wheat, melon, sage green, rose and peach. These colors are
repeated in the fabrics, woven textiles of cotton and linen. Simple elegance
at every turn, even in the flower arrangements – large sprays of magnolia
leaves, pierced with a few blossoms – golden tiger lilies, white lilies or
roses.
The next stop is at the Ristorante del Buon Ricordo, a restaurant that is
reputed to serve up a memorable fish lunch, but we are happy to stay on board
and spread our picnic right out in front of us – a lunch of salamis and
cheeses, fresh grapes as well as grapes that have been bottled. It feels like
a stolen day, suspended as we are in pleasures of Italy, of table and of time,
both shared with good friends. If we never get off the boat again today, I
could be happy. But the tour treats us to two more stops – a visit to the
Barchessa Valmarana in Mira and then Villa Pisani, the villa that represents
the pinnacle of 18th century Venetian baroque architecture. Of its
114 rooms, most of them complete with their original furnishings, the ballroom
is the most renowned, stupefying visitors with its stunning trompe l’oeil
paintings and frescoes depicting the Glory of the Pisani Family by Tiepolo,
the most prominent painter of 18th century Venice. Many notable
guests have stayed at the Villa Pisani. Napoleon became its proprietor in
1807. In 1934, Mussolini and Hitler met here for the first time.
Our tour ends in Padova, a beautiful university city of picturesque streets
and lovely canals. Not far from the Basilica of Sant’Antonio, we find a
restaurant serving specialties of the Veneto and I am pleased to see Bigoli
in Salsa, whole-wheat pasta with an anchovy sauce, on the menu. I don’t
hesitate deciding on my order and what a treat it turns out to be.
In my simple but comfortable room, I am drowsy in the warm silence, delighting
in the new memories I have. My thoughts turn to Villa Foscari and its warm,
welcoming rooms, with their restful colors. I could sleep there and be
perfectly content!
35121 Padova
Tel: 30-049-820-6910
e-mail:
info@ilburchiello.it